When explaining it short and easy, a silhouette is made by placing you object in front of on of your main light sources, this can be indoor with a lamp, or best the sun or moon. When doing this your object will be under exposed (blacked out) and shows you the great effect of a silhouette?

The first step will be is turning off your flash, the object you are photographing needs to get very low light in contrast with the lighter background. The next step will be taking care of the lightning, be sure there is more light in the background and on the front of your object. Make sure your object is distinct and uncluttered, what I mean is that if you shoot like 2 people, or multiple objects, try to make the loose from each other, so you can see the real shapes.

Now the most important part, the camera settings, when shooting automatic you want to meter on the light part of the image. This means probably the sky or background. In most cases, you can press the shutter half way when pointing towards a light background, then reposition and take the shot. A other good solution is to point your camera towards the background, press the shutter half way to meter the shot. and then press the * button. (not all cameras have this feature) This will lock your exposure metering and allows you to focus back on the subjects for a blurred background. (shooting at wide apertures)

But let’s face it. This takes way to long for sports photography! There for shooting manual is the best option. Try to find out what settings work best for you and give you a perfect silhouette and dial it in when you think your opportunity is coming to shoot a perfect silhouette. I’ll tell you, your up for a hard task, making good silhouettes on moving objects is going to be hard, but its great fun!

1D Mark IV | 1D MarkIV | Canon EOS 1D Mark IV

The EOS 7D is the first camera with the possibility to trigger remote flashes directly from the body. Earlier you needed to buy a ST-E2 to get this working. With the iFCL-Metering system existing on 63 zones needs to take care of consistent metered exposures. The system uses focus, color and lightning information. All af point transfer information to the new metering system that will result in more consistent exposure. With the 2 DIGIC 4 processors, its now possible to shot bursts of 8 frames per second with a total of 126 Jpegs or 15 Raw files.

New design
Not only technical features and specifications have been changed, Canon also designed the camera new from scratch with a lot of attention going toward ergonomics. The 7D is for example, a lot more solid and feels a lot better than the earlier 40D and 50D cameras. For example, the buttons are now positioned on the left side of the screen instead of the bottom, which is a lot better usable. The body is a lot better sealed for different kinds of weather conditions. Even while the body is almost the same size as the 40 and 50D, it still has the 3 inch screen and even a new button called the quickmenu button.

Mega pixels
With the same sensor sizes as the EOS 50D (1.6x) are the amount of pixels again improved. With 18 Mega pixels is this a great improvement on the 15 mega pixels on the 50D. The sensor of the 7D is newly designed and uses just like the 50D and 5D Mark II a gapless design, where there is no space between the micro lenses. Unless the new designed sensor its the question if canon can produce the very clean high ISO images like they promise like they did on the 50D. The 40D outperformed the 50D significantly concerning ISO noise.

19 AF points
Also the focus system is designed completely new. While Nikon supplies there basic models with 11 AF point with 3d Tracking, has Canon not improved very much last years in the aps-c-cameras. The new 19 AF points are going to change that, since all 19 points are Cross-type sensors from f/5.6. The Focus system has a dedicated processor so that the camera has no problems with the 8 fp/s.

Movie function
In the EOS 7D there has been a lot of improvements on the movie function. The lightning is can be used fully manual en frame rates can be chosen. In Full-HD (1920X1080) the choice is 30 (29,7), 25 and 24 fps. On the resolutions 1280X720 and 640×480 you can choose between 60 and 50fps. Cutting your movies directly on camera is the next great new feature added, and just like the 5D Mark II is there a possibility to add a external microphone to your camera.

Intelligent Viewfinder
On the new viewfinder Canon added a LCD-Overlay, where you can choose different overlays, like grids, spot metering and AF points. This seems interesting but sounds a lot better than it is. Nikon has this already for years and seems a lot handier than it practically is. Canon uses 2 lighted AF points to measure your straight horizon, they will light up when you tilt your camera. But this is a lot less accurate than using this is live view mode.

Conclusion
This camera seems to be a great fit for Sports and Nature photographers with the 1.6x crop factor, and the improved speed and auto focus system, they have a great (cheaper) choice between the 1D series and the 50D series. Great for a second body next to your 1D or just as your main body.

Price: 1739 Euro
Pixels: 18-Megapixels
Sensor: CMOS (22.3 x 14.9 mm)
LCD: 3 inch (920.000 px)
AF: 19 Cross type
Burst: 8 Frames per second (126 jpeg 15 RAW)
Data: Conpact Flash
Dimensions: 148 x 111 x 74 mm
Weight: 820 gram (ex battery)

Canon 1d4 front view New 45-point Area AF sensor including 39 cross-type AF points with f/2.8 support plus new AI Servo II AF with improved algorithm.

ISO 100 – 12800 (expandable to L: 50, H1: 25600, H2: 51200, H3: 102400) for shooting from bright to dim light with low noise levels.

EOS HD movie with manual exposure control and multiple frame rates (1080: 30p (29.97) / 24p (23.976) / 25p, 720: 60p (59.94) / 50p, 480: 60p (59.94) / 50p).

16.1 Megapixel APS-H CMOS sensor and Dual DIGIC 4 Image Processors for high image quality and speed.

10.0 fps continuous shooting up to 121 Large JPEGS or 28 RAW using a UDMA CF card.

3.0-inch ClearView II LCD monitor, 160° viewing angle, 920,000-dot VGA, reflection resistance with multi coating and high-transparency materials for bright and clear viewing.

Magnesium alloy body with shutter durability up to 300,000 cycles and exclusive dust- and weather-resistance.

Fully compatible with over 50 EF lenses and a wide range of EOS System accessories.

High-Speed Auto Focus.

With the new 45 point AF Sensor with 39 of them Cross-type af point (at a aperture of f/2.8 or higher) and even a new AI Servo II AF system with improved algorithm lets hope the focus issues can be moved to the past.

The EOS-1D Mark IV has a newly developed, high-precision Area AF sensor with 45 manually selectable points including 39 cross-type, high-precision AF points for exacting and fast focusing no matter the subject. New AI Servo II AF focus tracking features improved algorithms that help improve stability, reliability and focus no matter the situation. Whether shooting a fast-paced soccer game or shooting a close-up of a bee on a wind-blown flower during macro photography, AI Servo II AF helps ensure sharp focus every time. AF point selection has been improved as well. Photographers can select their own point through either the camera’s Multi-controller or Main Dial/Quick Control Dial. Automatic selection is as simple as the press of a button. With Custom functions, photographers can select their own default focus point to automatically switch between horizontal and vertical shooting and can even choose to have primary focus supported by adjacent focus points for more accuracy with moving subjects.

Outstanding image quality
- 16.1 megapixel APS-H CMOS Sensor
- Dual DiG!C 4 Image Processors
- 14-bit A/D colour conversion
- ISO 100-12800 (L:50, H1: 25600, H2: 51200,
H3: 102400)

High Performance Features
- High speed & precision 45-point AF
(39 cross-type points + 6 points)
- Capture up to 10 fps
- HDMI Output in FULL High-Definition
- FULL HD Movie recording

Digital SLR photography made easy
- 3.0″ Clear View II LCD screen (920,000 dots)
- Quick Control screen
- Compatible with all EF lenses
- Live View shooting

Highly Intuitive
- Automatic image correction
- Auto Lighting Optimiser
- Auto correction of lens peripheral illumination
- EOS Integrated Cleaning System

Excellent customisation features
- Copyright information – up to 63 characters
- Register up to three camera user settings
- 62 custom functions
- My Menu

Huge Range of Standard Accessories + Software
- Battery Charger LC-E4
- Interface Cable IFC-200U
- Battery Pack LP-E4
- Stereo AV cable AVC-DC400ST
- Date/time CR2025 lithium battery
- Wide Strap L6
- EOS DIGITAL Solution Disk
- Software Instruction Manual

Optional Accessories
- All EF & L Series Lenses
- Canon EX-series Speedlites
- Macro Ring Lite MR-14EX
- Macro Twin Lite MT-24EX
- E-series Dioptric Adjustment Lenses
- Angle Finder C
- Original Data Security Kit OSK-E3
- Interface Cable IFC-500U
- AC Adapter Kit ACK-E4
- Battery Charger CBL-E6
- Car Battery Cable CB-570
- HDMI Cable HTC-100
- Wireless File Transmitter WFTE2 II D
- Timer Remote Controller TC-80N3
- Remote Switch RS-80N3
- Wireless Controller LC-5
- Speedlite Transmitter ST-E2

* Please note – for a complete list of standard inclusions and optional accessories, contact your nearest Canon dealer. Not all items listed in the specifications come as standard
** Prices are for body only and do not include lenses. Kit prices for SLR cameras with lenses are also available, please contact your nearest Canon dealer for more information.
*** All pricing indications are recommendations and are intended for guidance only. Dealers are not obliged to comply with recommended pricing. Please contact your nearest Canon dealer for specific pricing, product and inclusion information.
**** Available at selected Canon resellers nationally.

Basketball Camera bodies.

I advice to shoot with something like a Canon 40D, Canon 50D, Nikon D300 or Nikon D700. But even better of course the Canon 1D mark II, IIn, or III. And for nikon that is the D2x or D3s. The reason i choose these camera because they are pretty good with ISO, and all have a pretty good Burst rate. (which is great for all sports). For indoor sports i focus really on the ISO performance. My personal preference goes out to my Canon 1D Mark III, a great solid body with 10fps and great ISO performance! The best is to carry 2 bodies, but also this applies to almost all sports. I would choose 1 for telephoto and the other for wide angle. This way you can just switch instantly when the action comes up close.

Basketball Camera Settings

Mode
Since you are shooting indoors with consistent lightning i would choose to shoot manual mode. If your venue does not have nice even lightning on the full court choose AV (Aperture Priority).

Shutter
Try to keep you eye on the shutter speed if your not shooting manual. you really need 1/250th and above. But to freeze real action you more need something like around 1/400th.

ISO
To reach these kind of shutter speeds you often will need ISO’s around 1250 or higher. it really depends on the venue and the lightning, for lower classes you will get cheaper venues and no TV lightning which will force you to go for ISO’s like 1600 – 3200.

Aperture
Since the light wont be great everywhere i’m afraid your fixed with 2.8. personally if you can get it take f/4. most of the times your shots are sharper, and when there is a defense action as well this will turn out sharp also.

White balance
This is one of the hardest things i think. Often you get orange kind of shots or maybe even blue. this is all thanks to your AWB (Auto white balance) which can not always get the color temperature right. The one and only way to solve this is working with a Custom White balance and a gray card. Since i’m to lazy to do this i shoot almost always AWB and in RAW mode so i can modify my White balance later in Post Production.

Auto focus
This is a bit of personal preference, i like to assign my AF-ON button for focusing, this makes it easy to track the athletes. For cameras like the 1d mark III i like to keep settings default (AF-speed concerning).

Basketball photography lenses

Telephoto
For shooting photos across the court i like to shoot with a 70-200 f/2.8 IS, lenses like a 300mm could be nice as well, but i think this is a bit to limited. the 70-200 gives your enough flexibility with the greatness of 2.8 and IS. You can get great mid-court action with this.

Close-court
My lens of choice will be something like the 50mm range (1.8, 1.4 or 1.2) this is such a bizarre sharp nice lens. i love it. or if you want more flexibility go for a 24-70 f/2.8 this will get you somewhere from mid-court to basket! even for overviews it will hold great.

Basketball photography technique

Follow the ball
The action is where the ball is. follow the ball and you will get the shots. Also referring to my other post “Analyze before you shoot” checkout what players stand out, or just look great to concentrate on those a bit.

Spectators and coaches
Sport is more then just the athletes, try to watch around and check for aggressive coaches, happy or enthusiastic spectators an great overviews. Also things like cheerleaders and such are great photo material

field location
I think my spots are pretty much the same as field hockey. next to the baskets to see action coming towards me is one of the best spots. second is the sidelines. Be creative and focus on faces. a face-less picture is almost always nothing good.

Seat location
If you are not able to get court side access, try to seat as close as possible. be aware that a 70-200 is minimum here. you really need the 200 to get the shots. but still its good possible.

Look around
Do not focus to hard on you viewfinder, also look around, keep both eyes open while shooting to be able to predict the game a little better. There is more to sports then just action with the ball.

]]> http://sports-photography-blog.com/basketball-photography-tips/feed/ 12 http://sports-photography-blog.com/shooting-in-low-light-situations/ http://sports-photography-blog.com/shooting-in-low-light-situations/#comments Tue, 06 Oct 2009 13:01:52 +0000 Kay in t Veen http://sports-photography-blog.com/?p=42 This is one of the hardest things for a sports photographer, shooting in low light situations. For example, ice-hockey, basketball or any other indoor sport for that matter. If you are in a NHL Rink for example you have less problems, this is because of the TV lights available at such locations But the normal gyms or rinks don’t have very good lightning, trough our eyes it seems verry bright and nice, but for a camera which only captures a very small fraction of light it gets hard.

Shutter
The minimum shutter speed you have to get is 1/250th. But personally i never us 250th for a sport. 1/320 is the real minimum for me. it depends on the sport i am shooting, Fieldhockey is a fast sport you defenitly need something like 320 400-> for this. and still you wont be able to freeze the action. This gives you some creative possibilities. try play with it.

Aperture
Go as wide as possible. i suggest 2.8 is the minimum here. Past week i shot a ice hockey game at ISO 3200 aperture 2.8 shutter 1/320. I really wanted to go up to 1/400th but this was a real no-go!

ISO
When i am shooting indoor my ISO is always somewhere between 1600 and 3200. i usually start somewhere at 1600 and bump it up untill i reached the right exposure around 1/320th.

Other tips
1. Shoot raw! – Since the reflection of the courts, walls and ceiling is different then just a bare sky, and the light sources are of a different color temperature your white balance will often be pretty screwed. you have 2 options, use a custom white balance with a Grey card. Or just go auto on this and do it in post-production.
2. Keep your histograms in sight. check once in a while if your shoots are good exposed, since you are already in a high iso, boosting up your exposure/brightness with affect your image noise, and give you a hell lot more then just a good exposure.
3. Be sure your shots a really sharp. with apertures 2.8, 2.0, 1.8 your often get of-focus shots since its focussing on the stick, or ball. This gives you a bad exposure. and photos just a bit of-focus can be good in good light situations (a bit of sharpening in post producton) but with these high iso’s you images will suck pretty much.

Good luck! and if there are any questions, feel free to comment on the article.

ISO: 1600
Shutter: 1/250
Aperture: f/2.8

ISO: 3200
Shutter: 1/320
Aperture: f/2.8

]]> http://sports-photography-blog.com/shooting-in-low-light-situations/feed/ 6 http://sports-photography-blog.com/canon-1d-mark-iii/ http://sports-photography-blog.com/canon-1d-mark-iii/#comments Fri, 02 Oct 2009 21:00:29 +0000 Kay in t Veen http://www.sports-photography-blog.com/?p=1 The canon 1D Mark III is my long time favorite, lightning fast and great results. Although there are some conversations circulating about AF (Auto Focus) problems. Me myself i did not have any experience about this. almost always when a picture was out-of-focus i could think of something I’ve done wrong. But further with great ISO performance, 10 frames per sec. 10 Megapixel this is a great cam for me. Currently using only one, but hopefully use 2 of those bodies will be the perfect situation for me.

Later i will try to talk more about the in depth things of this camera, like custom functions. pro’s / con’s, best practices and more. first of all some specifications.

• 10.1 Megapixel CMOS sensor
• 10 fps, max. burst of 110 JPEGs (30 RAW’s)
• Dual “DIGIC III” processors
• High precision wide area AF
• Sensor cleaning system
• ISO 100-3200 range (L:50 H:6400)
• 3.0″ LCD display with Live View mode
• Picture Style
• EF lens compatibility

]]> http://sports-photography-blog.com/canon-1d-mark-iii/feed/ 1